Noting the renovation of a retail space at Liberty and Division last summer, I did not have high hopes for Mani Bar & Osteria. Its proximity to Bar Louie made me assume it would be another generic beer/burgers/nachos kind of place reimagined with pseudo-Italian gimmicks as a generic wine/pizza/pasta kind of place. Then I see it listed as one of the ten best new restaurants of Metro Detroit with mention of a pistachio pizza, and I arrange to meet my colleague K. there for a January luncheon.
I arrive at 11:25 and though they don’t open until 11:30 they offer shelter from the blanched and frigid street. The hostess, looking impossibly glam for 11:00 AM in a poofy bell-shaped skirt, black tights, sky-high wedge heels, and a severe hairstyle reminiscent of haute couture or anime is on the phone, breaking the news that no tables are available at the desired time. Hanging up from that call, she asks would I mind waiting a few moments to be seated as she has a call on hold. She then engages in two more calls with people eager to book tables at Mani Osteria. These people need to show up at 11:30 on a Tuesday.
I arrive at 11:25 and though they don’t open until 11:30 they offer shelter from the blanched and frigid street. The hostess, looking impossibly glam for 11:00 AM in a poofy bell-shaped skirt, black tights, sky-high wedge heels, and a severe hairstyle reminiscent of haute couture or anime is on the phone, breaking the news that no tables are available at the desired time. Hanging up from that call, she asks would I mind waiting a few moments to be seated as she has a call on hold. She then engages in two more calls with people eager to book tables at Mani Osteria. These people need to show up at 11:30 on a Tuesday.
While waiting for K. I order an unmemorable but competent cappuccino doppio and assess the decor. The collector and museologist in me appreciates the architectural figures reminiscent of the foro romano framed on the wall behind my table; a collection of mirrors on the opposite wall extends the view of the open-format kitchen eastward, across Division, toward the aforementioned Bar Louie. Milky glass baubles of light fixtures are clustered over a secluded family-style banquet table set off from the main dining area to the right. These assemblages contrast with the clean lines of the tables and chairs. The space feels intentional, if somewhat sparsely embellished. Sparsely populated as well; during most of our visit the only other diner is a forty-something women reading a book at the next table, leisurely eating a pizza, and perhaps eavesdropping on our conversation about K.’s poet/rapper/electrician love interest.
We ordered the mix and match lunch special (The Italian Job: $12.50) with a starter of cauliflower soup. Each spoonful of cauliflower soup was a silky pillow on the tongue, whipped smooth with a base of Greek yogurt that gave it a luxurious mouthfeel. Thick enough to hold its shape after each dip of the spoon, it supported crunchy gardiniera, herbs, and garlic oil-drizzled crouton garnishes that were texturally appropriate counterpoints. I chose a basic pizza margherita topped with fior di latte (fancy name for less expensive cow milk mozzarella), San Marzano tomatoes, and basil; and K., the gnocchi. The pizza was delicious with an Italian-thin crust but a slightly different texture than the crusts of Roman pizzerias I'd hoped to fondly recall. The sauce and crust were both saltier than they needed to be, but not to any point of concern. Due to the richness of the soup, I requested half my pizza be packaged for later enjoyment. “I didn’t mean to bogart your pizza,” the server apologized as she rushed the takeout bag to the table moments before our departure. The staff at Mani are polite and move with practiced gestures suggesting ample training and rehearsal.
Lunch + coffee + tip = $21 and worth every cent. Can’t wait to try different pizzas: “The A2” (asparagus, anchovy and egg), “Red Onion and Pistachio” (with goat cheese and rosemary), or “Roasted Eggplant and Fennel” (with ricotta, tapenade, and basil). Whether I pair it with “La Strada” (Prosecco, Aperol, rosemary) and/or “The Bicycle Thief” (Knickerbocker gin, St. Germain, Lillet, Pernod) is TBD.
In the meantime, you can plan your own visit at http://maniosteria.com/.
In the meantime, you can plan your own visit at http://maniosteria.com/.
















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