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Dining Out: Mani Bar & Osteria, Ann Arbor, MI

01/10/2012

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Noting the renovation of a retail space at Liberty and Division last summer, I did not have high hopes for Mani Bar & Osteria. Its proximity to Bar Louie made me assume it would be another generic beer/burgers/nachos kind of place reimagined with pseudo-Italian gimmicks as a generic wine/pizza/pasta kind of place. Then I see it listed as one of the ten best new restaurants of Metro Detroit with mention of a pistachio pizza, and I arrange to meet my colleague K. there for a January luncheon. 

I arrive at 11:25 and though they don’t open until 11:30 they offer shelter from the blanched and frigid street. The hostess, looking impossibly glam for 11:00 AM in a poofy bell-shaped skirt, black tights, sky-high wedge heels, and a severe hairstyle reminiscent of haute couture or anime is on the phone, breaking the news that no tables are available at the desired time. Hanging up from that call, she asks would I mind waiting a few moments to be seated as she has a call on hold. She then engages in two more calls with people eager to book tables at Mani Osteria. These people need to show up at 11:30 on a Tuesday.

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While waiting for K. I order an unmemorable but competent cappuccino doppio and assess the decor. The collector and museologist in me appreciates the architectural figures reminiscent of the foro romano framed on the wall behind my table; a collection of mirrors on the opposite wall extends the view of the open-format kitchen eastward, across Division, toward the aforementioned Bar Louie.  Milky glass baubles of light fixtures are clustered over a secluded family-style banquet table set off from the main dining area to the right. These assemblages contrast with the clean lines of the tables and chairs. The space feels intentional, if somewhat sparsely embellished.  Sparsely populated as well; during most of our visit the only other diner is a forty-something women reading a book at the next table, leisurely eating a pizza, and perhaps eavesdropping on our conversation about K.’s poet/rapper/electrician love interest. 

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A shelf with bottles of jewel-hued liquid on the left (Campari? Aperol?) filter light from the floor-to-ceiling windows and add a welcome pop of color on a winter's day.
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We ordered the mix and match lunch special (The Italian Job: $12.50) with a starter of cauliflower soup. Each spoonful of cauliflower soup was a silky pillow on the tongue, whipped smooth with a base of Greek yogurt that gave it a luxurious mouthfeel. Thick enough to hold its shape after each dip of the spoon, it supported crunchy gardiniera, herbs, and garlic oil-drizzled crouton garnishes that were texturally appropriate counterpoints. I chose a basic pizza margherita topped with fior di latte (fancy name for less expensive cow milk mozzarella), San Marzano tomatoes, and basil; and K., the gnocchi. The pizza was delicious with an Italian-thin crust but a slightly different texture than the crusts of Roman pizzerias I'd hoped to fondly recall.  The sauce and crust were both saltier than they needed to be, but not to any point of concern. Due to the richness of the soup, I requested half my pizza be packaged for later enjoyment. “I didn’t mean to bogart your pizza,” the server apologized as she rushed the takeout bag to the table moments before our departure. The staff at Mani are polite and move with practiced gestures suggesting ample training and rehearsal.

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“Would you like your pizza on a can?” Efficient use of tabletop real estate.
Lunch + coffee + tip = $21 and worth every cent.  Can’t wait to try different pizzas: “The A2” (asparagus, anchovy and egg), “Red Onion and Pistachio” (with goat cheese and rosemary), or “Roasted Eggplant and Fennel” (with ricotta, tapenade, and basil).  Whether I pair it with “La Strada” (Prosecco, Aperol, rosemary) and/or “The Bicycle Thief” (Knickerbocker gin, St. Germain, Lillet, Pernod) is TBD.  

In the meantime, you can plan your own visit at http://maniosteria.com/.
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Biscuits and Bloody Marys Brunch

01/08/2012

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Invited some colleagues over to kick off the new semester. Made a few recipes from my culinary 2012 'to do' list, including cream biscuits, lemon curd, and caesar beans.
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Bloody Marys made with amazing McClure's mix + Prince Edward Distillery potato vodka.
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Arugula topped with cara cara oranges, pink grapefruit, avocado, radishes, and scallions. Drizzled with persian lime infused olive oil and sprinkled with merlot salt and ground green peppercorn.
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Bloody Mary station with celery stalk and marinated bean garnishes.
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Found a great recipe for lemon curd on Epicurious.
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Whipped heavy cream until it turned to butter, squeezed out the excess liquid, and flavored with orange juice, zest, cinnamon, and sea salt.
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My teeny tiny Ann Arbor kitchen proved quite sufficient for brunch hosting.
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Baking Longer-Lasting Macarons: Polymer Clay Charms

12/29/2011

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Ever since macarons became de rigeur, I’ve wanted to (try to) make some. To this end, I bought two all-macaron cookbooks and received as a gift a Silpat last Christmas. And yet. 


Then I learn that my dear little cousin CM, eight years my junior, has taken on macarons, tirelessly making batch after batch, experimenting with flavors, and posting photos to facebook that made me both proud and sheepish for not putting eggs to almonds myself. In addition to some goodies to assist in her endeavors, such as gel paste colors, edible gold stars, and disco dust, I thought I might purchase a macaron charm for her. Etsy lists all manner of macaron charms in polymer clay, running the gamut from art pieces to misshapen blobs. After viewing some clay-macaron-making tutorials on YouTube I thought, surely I could make one myself. The basic supplies cost the same as a moderately priced single macaron charm, and allowed enough clay to make at least six. 
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I started out with clay, plastic clay tools, round fondant cutters, and satin glaze. I read some more blogs and how-to sites. I went back to the store for more clay (white, to tone down my green), an acrylic roller, and jump rings & head pins for the pendant part. At Home Depot I got razor blades (for cutting clay cleanly) and silicone (for adding whipped topping to the Starbucks Frappucino charms I decided to make next, having seen a YouTube tutorial). I still didn’t have baby wipes or isopropyl alcohol. But I decided to try a trial macaron. The plastic clay tools were unsuitable for detail work. I tried a tiny screwdriver for the rough ‘foot’ texture. Not ideal, but better than the clay tool. I got a passable approximation together. Despite rolling my clay on a pristine new sheet of aluminum foil, I ended up with numerous dust bits stuck to the surface of my charm. Since it was a just a rough prototype, I inserted an eye pin and baked my ½”-thick macaron at 275F for 30 minutes inside a little pod of foil (apparently the clay releases gases as it bakes and this material will stick to the inside of the oven). 

Rolling the cured, cooled charm around on my palm, though crudely formed, I had to admit, the thing was unmistakably a teeny pistachio macaron.

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Macaron attempts #1 and #3.
I found a tutorial recommending dusting the clay with potato starch to reduce stickiness. Corn starch was easier to access and since another site recommended baking beads buried in corn starch to prevent flat sides, I dusted my next attempts and picked up far less debris. A pointy needle worked perfectly to rough up the ‘foot’ area of the macaron, and a coating of glaze gave it a nice satiny finish. 

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CM's red velvet macarons were not only delicious, they also matched my manicure.
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CM's Christmas Eve macarons in mint chocolate, red velvet, and tiramisu.
Can’t say whether the polymer variety is easier to make than the real thing until I’ve tried both, but they are certainly sturdier and longer lasting. 
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CM wearing her pistachio macaron charm from me and a pistachio macaron bracelet charm from her boyfriend.
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Dining Out: The Ravens Club, Ann Arbor, MI

12/28/2011

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The aesthetic of The Ravens Club seduces, from the stark bird silhouette on the shingle out front to the cattail sculptures in the foyer. Blue-green glass fixtures and massive azure-lined lampshades emit a sultry glow. Bar lamps drip with jewels. Mellow jazz infiltrates the dark air, punctuated by the rhythmic rat-a-tat-tat of a smartly agitated cocktail shaker. 

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House Rules on page one of the cocktail menu preemptively admonish less-civilized patrons (rowdy undergraduates: be warned).
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"Keep it classy and discreet." --House Rules
“Watch out for the mustard aioli, it’s like crack.”
Pomme frites are served with a garlicky, creamy mustard aioli that is, as our server cautioned us, like crack. You'll want to put it on everything and when the frites are finissent you'll be licking it off your fingertips and/or your date (no, wait, on second thought, I think the House Rules forbid that).

The pommes frites rate their fancy French handle. Crisp and hot on the outside and, in LH's words, "like a cloud" inside. The ethereal interior is creamy and light without being mealy. Some of the best frites I’ve had in ma vie.
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The lunches may look basic, but they were divine.
We split two sandwiches. The stone-ground cornmeal-dusted ruby trout on sourdough came with a bright, cool cucumber sauce. The modestly titled grilled cheese paired Brie and provolone-esque Caciocavallo cheeses with tomatoes and hazelnut aioli on ciabatta. It would have been a bit too crunchy if not accompanied by a dipping dish of luscious pesto. I could not decide which I preferred. Both sandwiches were fresh and flavorful.
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The Ravens Club #2 and The Griswald
“It’s more of a cocktail for the nose than the mouth.”
Alas, anticipation surpassed the actual event in the area of cocktails. Positives first: novel tulip-shaped glasses were brimming with icy, icy cold libations that had enjoyed a vigorous bicep-building shake. I opted for a seasonal drink, The Griswald (Tanqueray, Torres, egg white garnished with peppermint oil and rose water, and served in a housemade grenadine-streaked glass). Though it was described by the server as “a cocktail for the nose,” I was disappointed to detect neither whiff nor flavor of rose in this minty, watery cocktail. 
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Tinctures of peppermint oil and rose water glimmer in the egg white foam.
LH’s The Ravens Club #2 (Chopin potato vodka, St-Germain, blackberry puree, fresh lemon, fresh mint) had a redeeming blackberry earthiness but tasted a little flat. Though the cocktails underwhelmed, I'll give them another try on my next visit.
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Gotta love the raven motif wallpaper.
On a concluding note, the ambiance is aural as well as visual. Smooth jazz lured us into the narrow space and a quiet booth beneath golden hued leaded glass lamps. As the meal proceeded, selections became more eclectic. Johnny Cash's twangy “Fulsome Prison Blues” was not conducive to my Prohibition-era reverie. "What is the thinking behind this selection?" I wondered aloud. 

LH shrugged, “It’s a whiskey song, I guess.”

I’d been spoiled a few minutes earlier by Pink Martini’s “Hang on Little Tomato.” I can't help but think that this is the music you want to hear when you're pretending to be in the 1920s. Yes, it's a 2004 song inspired by a 1964 Hunt’s Ketchup ad campaign. But maybe that sums up the appeal of The Ravens Club. It isn’t a heritage site, or a portal to the past--it's a spot for excellent food, locally sourced and seasoned with nostalgia for a lux, more-civilized time that never was.
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Need a hit of mustard aioli? Plan your visit at http://www.theravensclub.com/
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Impromptu Pizza Topping

12/27/2011

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Our super-thin crust pizza arrived slightly mangled...
Perusing the toppings offered by Pizza House for $1.40 each (2.80 for anchovies) and realizing the whole list was stuff we already had in the house we opted to order a cheese pizza and cook up an impromptu topping while we were waiting. 

Here’s how it went down:

We sautéed an entire head of garlic  + some chopped red onion & scallions.

We added a can of anchovies (drained, of course).

Then a bunch of chopped banana pepper rings and a can of petite dice tomatoes (also drained) with a ¼ teaspoon of red pepper flakes. 

When our super thin crust pizza arrived—jammed up along one side of the box, alas—we scooped our salty, zesty custom topping (a $9.80 value!) on top. Considering the state of the pizza, it wasn't pretty, but it was delicious. 
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Side salad with yellow bell peppers and radishes.
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Dining Out: Stang of Siam, Mount Vernon, Baltimore

11/28/2011

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My introduction to Stang of Siam was less than auspicious. LH had been raving about it after two visits and I had been looking forward to dining here upon my return from Canada. But then bronchitis and a sinus infection intervened; I got the ‘lite’ version of whatever he had within days of my return. We spent Thanksgiving weekend in Pennsylvania, clutching our Kleenex boxes and Nyquil bottles, watching Friends DVDs and reading back issues of Cooks Illustrated. It wasn’t all bad, but then we had to drive back to Baltimore and move him out of 'current apartment' down three flights, into the adjacent building and up one flight to 'new apartment with off-street parking.' We grudgingly did so, miserably ill though we still were. Our palates were less than receptive, but we agreed that spicy Asian food would be perfection when lunch break time arrived. I can’t wait to return when I can taste everything fully, because I like everything about this place. (Except the fried tofu, but I don’t like fried tofu anywhere.)

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Elegant storefront: check.
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Elegant interior that says ‘Thai restaurant’ without feeling like a flea market: check.
Clientele equal parts business people and hipsters: check.
Appropriately pleasant, attentive waitstaff: check.
Outstanding food (lunch special of soup, 2 spring rolls and entree for $10!?!): CHECK.
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Here’s what: vegetarian soup was gorgeous, mellow, cute potato cubes, delicate broth. Spring rolls warm, crisp, non-greasy.
Basil chae: spicy, basily, crisp vegetables. Good. Fried tofu...soggy, greasy, like almost every other fried tofu I’ve had. (Maybe that’s how it’s supposed to be. Maybe I just don’t like fried tofu.)
Drunken noodle with chicken: OMFG. So good. Simultaneously sweet and spicy. Noodles richly sauced. Chicken (which LH ordered, not me, I don’t eat chicken) tender; vegetables crisp. This is one to order over and over and over again.

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Basil chae. Lighting wasn't great for this shot.
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Drunken noodle with chicken. OMFG. So. Good.
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Pumpkin Pie Shooters

11/25/2011

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For that awkward after-dinner, pre-dessert moment when everyone's insisting they can't eat another bite, I developed a decadent holiday digestif.







I mixed the ingredients in a generic condiment squeeze bottle the night before and placed it in the freezer to chill. 

4TB pumpkin butter

4TB heavy cream

4TB whipped cream vodka

1TB Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur

1 TB brown sugar

pinch of pumpkin pie spice

Move the bottle from the freezer to the refrigerator a few hours before serving to ensure squeezability. Squeeze a modest portion into each shot glass and garnish with a rosette of whipped cream and a pinch of pumpkin pie spice. Serves eight.


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Vodka Pie Crust, Local Fruit, and the Dawn of a New Era

11/23/2011

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Before I left for Canada LH harvested some early-ripe mystery apples from our orchard in PA. We bagged them in the fridge for a Thanksgiving pie.

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The first thing I want to say about these apples is that they are ugly as sin. They are spotted, pocked, violated by pests, and the sight of them would inspire complaints to a grocery store manager. These are hideous, hideous apples. But I felt good as I peeled and trimmed away the rot (sometimes up to ¾ of a single fruit) because intellectually I know the prettiest fruits is not necessarily the best fruits. The fact that these apples were grown within the viewshed of my kitchen window and that they manifested without (much) human intervention and without chemicals stirred within me a sense of place, local identity, and anti-capitalist zest. I was proud of these apples, and I was going to make a pie with them, dammit.

The second thing I want to say about these apples is that my pleasure at their local cultivation had driven me to make a pie, which is not something I would normally do. For a couple Thanksgivings in the early '00s I’d made a pine nut pie from Intercourses but I’d (embarrassingly) always opted for a prefab frozen pie crust. As I explained to LH and my mother, both of whom remain horrified by my behavior, the filling is what makes a pie appealing. The crust is just a labor intensive container for what really matters. Making pie crust is messy, difficult (due to cracking, moisture management, etc.) and not worth my time. Since I had to make a crust for these apples, I turned to the Cooks Illustrated vodka pie crust recipe of 2007. LH (who does not resent making pie crusts) had tried it when it first came out and I remembered it being not bad; at least it rolled easier than others.
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But what was different about this year was the Cuisinart. The CI recipe used a food processor and we’d not had one before. With the manual cutting in of fat with a pastry blender removed from the process, I felt more optimistic about  making this crust. I'm not crazy about using vegetable shortening but the CI justification for its inclusion is convincing.

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It also happened that the same issue (Dec. ‘07) offered a recipe for apple cranberry pie. I  had the requisite two cups of cranberries left over from making relish and no preference for how I would prepare the apples for filling, so this seemed fated. The cranberries are cooked slightly and separately from the also slightly-cooked apples; both fillings are cooled then layered in the crust to keep their respective flavors distinct.

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The final result, my first full, solo pie, was both satisfyingly successful and obviously a learning experience. The crust recipe is perfect, but I should have processed my fats and flour a few more seconds than I did; the fat pebbles were way too large in places, leading to this misshapen bulgy crust. My inspiration of dusting the egg white glazed top crust with Acadian maple sugar granules I'd brought back from Canada added to the lumpy surface and made edges susceptible to over-browning. Not to mention it tasted nothing of maple by the time it came out of the oven. The overall appearance of the pie screams amateur but the textures and flavors of the crust and filling were first-rate.

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The IKEA squirrel cutter adds character to any pastry.
I had enough apples to make up a second batch of filling, which I’ve seasoned, precooked, and frozen for use in a Christmas pie next month. I’ll try to correct the crust errors identified above and see how it goes.

The third thing I want to say about these apples is that this experience reminds me how much I appreciate Cooks Illustrated because they explicitly teach readers why ingredients interact and respond as they do. I love toying with juxtapositions and tossing ingredients together based on educated guesses, but occasionally the chemistry lures me in. This experience also illustrates that, with something like pie crust at least, tools matter. Without the Cuisinart, this crust would not have happened, nor my uniform apple slices. I’ll be bringing LH’s rolling pin up from Baltimore for the December pie (an empty wine bottle just isn’t the same) and plan to add crust guards, pie weights, and someday, a marble slab to my PA kitchen. I think my thirties may be a pie-baking era. Stay tuned.
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Clementines in Bed

11/05/2011

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I’m reclining in bed with a stack of journal articles and a crate of clementines I bought on sale at Sobey’s for $3.77. I’m not sure which I’ll get through first, but I’m certain neither can be finished tonight. On the windowsill I’ve got three Honey Crisp apples, two Bosc pears, and a green-tipped banana. As I placed these fruits I thought, 'Hmm, I hope my hosts don’t see that I’m hoarding fruit and think I’m weird. Well, if they ask, I’ll just tell them: I like to keep fruit in the bedroom.’

Okaaaay, but the kitchen is literally across the hall. Why not put the fruit there and access it as needed? First, I don’t want it to be in their way. But second, and more honestly, I do like to keep some fruit in the bedroom. I find it comforting. Or maybe...I don’t know.

Now that clementine season is upon us, fragrant little shavings will be piled on nightstand, on bedside floor, on junk mail envelopes, on desk. I’m happy when my fingertips are citrusy and slightly dry. I like to sense the nearby abundance of an entire crate of citrus. A random piece of fruit on a stack of books freshens the tableau, as if to say ‘a person lives with these books.’

Until last week, a kiwifruit from a continental breakfast buffet in St. John perched atop Patricia West’s Domesticating History. After two months it had become shriveled, but I liked having it there in case I needed it. Michael Pollan has reminded us that if you aren’t hungry enough to eat an apple, you aren’t really hungry. So what’s wrong with keeping an apple around to test this theory before venturing out of bed to prepare a midnight snack? There are worse things to keep stashed in your bedroom. Potato chips. Twinkies. I have no need for these. But I like to keep my fruits around.

As I was talking to LH on Facetime shortly after I arrived in Canada, he panned the bedroom in Baltimore with the phone. “Look how clean,” he said. “No panties, no fruit, no books, no cupcake wrappers.” You’re right, darling...a bedroom unmarked by my presence is a sterile and joyless space.

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Dining Out: Seoul Food, Charlottetown, PE

10/24/2011

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I recently made my way through the crisp autumn night to Seoul Food. Rather than slinging the containers into a plastic bag and shoving it across the counter, the young man working that night carefully unhitched the styrofoam tab and displayed the contents for my approval. He bagged the box, added pristine containers of miso soup and soy sauce, and wished me well. But I’m getting ahead of myself. As I was waiting the scant ten minutes for my order, I perused a magazine on Korean culture and listened to three other guests who’d arrived after me converse about beverages (one was a Brit who claimed he could never get decent chocolate milk at home, finding UK versions ‘too syrupy’.) His dining companions greeted the employees by name. It’s that kind of place. 

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I ordered chapagetti, curly noodles in black bean sauce, accompanied by vegetable dumplings. As I drove home the spicy scent of the food was unfamiliar, yet comforting. Perhaps I should qualify: I am a Korean cuisine acolyte. Seoul Food is only the third Korean restaurant I have experienced. And to be fair, one of the others lists ‘dog fried rice’ (made with hot dogs) on its menu. 

The dumplings were warm and crisp. The kimchi—I’m not qualified to judge its authenticity—but it was the only kimchi I’ve liked enough to have a second bite. There’s always that moment when you are eating something fermented that you weren’t brought up on, that moment when your primate preservation instincts kick in and say-- ‘it’s rotten! drop it!’ and you have to overpower that with a rational knowledge that it’s safe. Kimchi gives me pause in a way sauerkraut never does. So thanks to Seoul Food, I am acquiring a taste for kimchi perhaps!

Can’t wait to return and try something else. 

http://seoulfood-canada.blogspot.com/2010_04_01_archive.html
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